Retinoids to Ceramides - Skincare Terminology Guide

Key ingredients for healthy skin

Achieving glowing, healthy skin often requires understanding the different skincare ingredients and how they work. Here’s a  break down of the key players from Retinoids to Ceramides and how they contribute to a healthy skin routine:

Active Ingredients
Active ingredients, or "actives," are natural or synthetic components added to formulations to target specific skin concerns. They are responsible for the product’s effectiveness. Each product contains several active ingredients tailored to improve skin health.

Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice)

Aloe vera is a great moisturising agent and well known for its hydration and skin soothing effect.

Antioxidants
Antioxidants are molecules that protect the skin by neutralizing free radicals—unstable molecules that cause oxidative stress, leading to damage of skin cells, proteins, and DNA, contributing to premature aging.

Boswellia Frereana (Frankincense) 

This is our hero ingredient formulated in each of our products. It is derived from one of the four main species of Boswellia which produces true Frankincense. It has been used in Ayurvedic medicine  and other medicinal applications for hundreds of years. Our Frankincense is FairWild certified and harvested in Somaliland where we support the local farmers. Boswellia Frereana Frankincense is known to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve skin firmness and elasticity, improve skin clarity, radiance and hydration. 

Ceramides

Ceramides help restore the lipid barrier and help dry skin to recover. Ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids are major components of the intracellular lipids that hold skin cells together like glue. When used in night time products, ceramides enhance the nourishing and caring nature of the product. 

Collagen
Collagen is the protein that forms the framework of the skin and most body tissues. It provides the skin with structure, firmness, and elasticity, but naturally decreases as we age.

FairWild

This is a certification where the local harvesters have been audited to check they have been trained in sustainable harvesting practices so the Frankincense trees are not over harvested, that they are paid a fair wage for their harvest, have contracts and their social welfare is considered. We are proud to support the harvesters in Somaliland. The photographs and video footage you see on our website and in our social channels are of our harvest areas in Somaliland and of the farmers who harvest our Frankincense. Many of the trees are hundreds of years old and through our partnership with FairWild we support their protection for future generations to come. 

Hyaluronic Acid
A powerful humectant found naturally in the skin, hyaluronic acid holds up to 1000 times its weight in water, keeping skin hydrated and plump. It also supports skin repair and healing after damage.

INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients)
The standardised system for listing cosmetic ingredients on product packaging. INCI names are often used to ensure consistency and transparency in labeling across different countries. You can find the INCI list for each product on our packaging and on the product pages of our website. 

Peptides
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as messengers in the skin. They signal the skin to perform certain functions, such as producing more collagen, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Retinoids

A family of Vitamin A derivatives, retinoids are highly regarded in anti-aging skincare for their ability to promote collagen production, accelerate skin cell turnover, and minimise the appearance of fine lines, pigmentation, and acne. The grade of retinol we use is Granactive Retinoid which breaks down into retinoic acid (Tretinoin) which is non irritating on the skin and so suitable for sensitive skin. The retinoids are what gives our night cream it’s natural pale yellow colour. 

Tetra Peptides
Tetra peptides are a specific type of peptide composed of four amino acids. They are known to enhance skin elasticity, promote collagen synthesis, and reduce signs of aging.

Vitamin A (Retinol/Retinoids)
Vitamin A derivatives, such as retinol and retinoids, help promote skin renewal, reduce wrinkles, and improve skin texture by accelerating cell turnover.

Vitamin B (Niacinamide)
A form of Vitamin B3, niacinamide is known for its anti-inflammatory properties. It strengthens the skin’s barrier, evens out skin tone, and reduces the appearance of enlarged pores.

Vitamin B (Panthenol)

Also called Provitamin B, or vitamin B5 is known to be a great skin conditioning agent that can help to improve the skin barrier. Its moisturising effect can make dry skin softer and more elastic, and soothe irritated skin.  

Vitamin C
One of the most widely studied antioxidants, Vitamin C brightens skin, reduces pigmentation, promotes collagen production, and helps protect against environmental damage caused by free radicals. We use a stabilised Vitamin C which helps improve the long term stability of the molecule and reduce oxidation. 

Vitamin D
Vitamin D plays a crucial role in skin protection and rejuvenation. It helps repair the skin barrier and supports the immune system, reducing sensitivity and irritation.

Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
A powerful antioxidant that protects the skin barrier. It also protects the skin from UV damage, blue light and pollution by scavenging free radicals. It protects from oxidation as free radicals set off chain reactions and can cause damage to the skin. 

MAYDI+™ High Performance Formulations

Each formulation features our hero ingredient, Frankincense (Boswellia frereana), renowned for its anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties, alongside clinically proven actives such as retinoids, peptides, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and vitamin C. These powerful ingredients work synergistically to help your skin appear firmer, smoother, and more radiant. In clinical trials, the Renewal Day Cream reduced wrinkle depth by up to 19% in just four weeks.